There’s potato gnocchi tossed in gorgonzola cream ($16), a rib-eye steak with pancetta and roasted garlic jus ($27), and Muse’s Mediterranean version of shrimp and grits ($19), with the shrimp seared and served over polenta with a basil and tomato cream sauce. It still features housemade pasta, fresh local seafood, and meat dishes, all prepared with accents of Italian and Iberian flavors. The entrée selection has not changed radically, either, under the new chef’s watch. The broad-cut rings of squid have great bits of brown char from the grill, and they’re tossed with olive oil, thin strips of basil, and little bits of red pepper and orange zest that add big sparks of sweetness and spice. The grilled calamari ($10) is also a fine appetizer, and a good one to share with the table. The meat is rubbed with sumac and then grilled, which gives it a splendidly smoky flavor with a fruity kick of tartness, and it’s served with sweet Madeira-braised onions, pomegranate jus, and Medjool dates that have been caramelized and reduced down to almost a mush. The grilled duck breast ($12) remains one of Charleston’s best appetizers because of its inspired combination of Middle Eastern flavors. They still make the restaurant’s savory Merguez sausage ($10) in-house from fresh lamb, and there’s always a bruschetta of the day ($8), which might be topped with anything from prosciutto or cheese to dates or white beans. The good news for Muse fans is that much remains the same under the new kitchen leadership. In February, new chef Howard LaFour, who was Craig Deihl’s sous at Cypress, took the reins at Muse, making subtle changes to the menu.
Since it opened four years ago, Muse Restaurant and Wine Bar has stood out for its distinctive interpretation of Mediterranean cuisine.